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Hitsumabushi in Nagoya – What is It and Where Can You Try It?

Eel is a Japanese delicacy. Eel is served in many different ways, such as in sushi, Una-don (eel and rice bowl with sweet savory sauce), Unaju (generous portion of eel served over rice in a bento box). These are just a few of the many different ways you can eat eel in Japan. In addition, restaurants specializing in eel each have their own special recipes, grilling techniques, and secret sauces.

There are many places across the country where you can find delicious eel dishes, but nothing can top Nagoya’s the signature dish Hitsumabushi.

If you want to learn about “Nagoya Meshi,” or the signature dishes of Nagoya city (like Miso Katsu, Miso Nikomi Udon, Kishimen, Tenmusu) and much more, check out this post.

So, what’s the origin of Hitsumabushi in Nagoya?

Eating Hitsumabushi
Hitsumabushi served in an Ohitsu

The word Hitsumabushi comes from the rice tubs called Ohitsu used by waitresses for serving cooked rice. They would put grilled pieces of eel on rice, which in Japanese can be described as Mabushu.

Over time, “Ohitsu ni Mabushu” became known as Hitsumabushi.

The origin of the dish Hitsumabushi isn’t exactly known, but it is believed to have originated from the end of the Edo period to the beginning of the Meiji Period (1868-1912) in Nagoya.

As eel has always been an expensive ingredient, it was considered wasteful to throw away leftovers or misshapen pieces of grilled eel. They were served to customers on a bed of rice, which is where today’s Hitsumabushi is believed to have originated.

The preparation process of Hitsumabushi in Nagoya is different from eel dishes found in other areas of Japan. The eel is sliced open and grilled whole over charcoal without steaming it.

Learn the Special Way to Enjoy Hitsumabushi Like a Local in 4 Steps!

Hitsumabushi set
Serving of Hitsumabushi

The preparation isn’t the only thing that’s unique about Nagoya Hitsumabushi. There is a special way to eat Hitsumabushi that makes the dish special and so, so delicious.

When ordering Hitsumabushi, you will get a tray, the main feature of which is a bowl filled with rice and topped with eel, covered in a sweet, savory glaze. There is often a layer of shredded Nori (seaweed) between the fish and the rice.

You will also get a smaller bowl that’s empty, a wooden spoon, and some condiments like green onions and wasabi. You will also likely recieve Tsukemono (Japanese style pickles) as well as miso soup, another kind of soup or broth. Lastly, you will also get a little pot shaped like a teapot filled with a broth made from fish stock.

Make sure to take a picture (or ten) before you divide your serving of eel into four parts.

STEP 1 – Enjoy the Original Flavor During Your First Serving of Nagoya Hitsumabushi.

Hitsumabushi Step4
First serving of Hitsumabushi

About quarter of your rice with eel is the first serving. Use a spoon to place it into your empty bowl, and enjoy the first serving as it is: rice served with grilled eel glazed with sticky, rich, and sweet soy sauce-based sauce with a bit of Nori.

STEP 2 – Change the Flavor of Your Hitsumabushi for Your Second Serving.

Hitsumabushi Step2
Second serving of Hitsumabushi

For the second serving, add more eel and rice to your extra bowl, and then add some of the condiments. These vary by location, but can be green onions, Wasabi, or Sansho pepper. Adding these will enhance the natural flavor of the Hitsumabushi.

STEP 3 – Hitsumabushi Becomes a Different Dish Altogether for Your Third Serving. 

Hitsumabushi Step3
Third serving of Hitsumabushi

For your third serving, you will finally get to use the little pot. It contains a broth, with which you make some delicious eel Ochazuke. Ochazuke is typically made by pouring hot tea over cooked rice, but in this case, you will use broth. Place your third serving of eel and rice into the smaller bowl, and pour the hot broth. so the rice and eel is almost covered.

You might think that pouring broth on rice is strange, but once you try it, you will see it is very tasty.

If you’d like you can put some extra Wasabi, green onion, and Sancho pepper on your Ochazuke to give it a little extra kick.

STEP 4 – The Best Comes Last. Have Your Favorite Combination of Hitsumabushi for Your Fourth Serving.

Hitsumabushi Step1
Fourth serving of Hitsumabushi

The last serving is for you to enjoy however you like. Now that you’ve tried it three ways, add some broth, condiments, or maybe just enjoy original flavor. It’s up to you.

The Tsukemono, as well as the soup or broth served with your Hitsumabushi set are for you to eat between servings. Don’t forget about them!

Where to Find the Best Hitsumabushi in Nagoya? Our Restaurant Recommendations.

While there are many delicious foods we recommend in Nagoya (more info on the best food in Nagoya here) if you only have time to try one more dish, we highly recommend it be Hitsumabushi.

The following are our favorite places to eat Hitsumabushi in Nagoya.

Specialties of Nagoya Food Tour

Specialties of Nagoya Food Tour

You can try Hitsumabushi and along with many other amazing Nagoya specialties on one of our Nagoya is not boring Original Tours called Specialties of Nagoya Food Tour. 

This tour is perfect for people who are short on time, but still want to try as many of Nagoya’s delicious offerings as possible.

This private tour runs for 3.5 hours every day, with a flexible start time between 11:00 and 17:00. While walking around Nagoya’s Sakae district, you will learn not only about many types of local food, but also about Nagoya’s history and Japanese culture.

Book your Specialties of Nagoya Food Tour here!

1. Hitsumabushi Ino

Hitsumabushi Ino
Hitsumabushi Ino Esca Shop

You don’t even have to leave Nagoya Station to try some authentic, deliciously prepared Hitsumabushi. On the west side of Nagoya Station is the Esca Underground Shopping Street, where you can find some of the best places to try Nagoya Meshi. One of them is Hitsumabushi Ino, a restaurant specializing in Hitsumabushi.

As we mentioned earlier, Hitsumabushi, can sometimes be on the expensive side, but Hitsumabushi Ino prides itself on its affordability.

If you don’t want to spend a lot of money on a dish you don’t even know if you’ll like, you can either share it, or try one of the mini-size eel bowls at Hitsumabushi Ino.

Hitsumabushi Ino Esca Shop (ひつまぶし稲生)
Opening Hours:
11:00 – 21:30
Address:
Esca Underground Shopping Street, 6-9 Tsubakicho, Nakamura Ward, Nagoya, Aichi 453-0015
Website
(Japanese only) | Google Maps

2. Hitsumabushi Bincho

Hitsumabushi Bincho
Hitsumabushi Bincho Dai Nagoya Building Shop

Another place you can try the Japanese eel dish is Hitsumabushi Bincho Nagoya. During lunch and dinner time, this restaurant typically has a long line of people waiting, but it is definitely worth it. This restaurant has a long tradition and specializes in Hitsumabushi, which is why it’s so popular with locals.

You can find Hitsumabushi Bincho in several different locations. The first is in the LACHIC shopping mall in Sakae. There is also a second location in the Esca Shopping Street, right outside Nagoya Station and the Dai Nagoya Building.

The main shop is in Oguchi town (Aichi), about 20 kilometers north of Nagoya. You can even find Hitsumabushi Bincho shops serving the Nagoya style eel bowls in Tokyo.

Hitsumabushi Nagoya Bincho LACHIC Shop (ひつまぶし備長)
Opening Hours:
11:00 – 15:00 and 17:00 – 21:30
Address:
Lachic 7F, 3-6-1 Sakae, Naka Ward, Nagoya, Aichi 460-0008
Website
| Google Maps

3. Atsuta Horaiken

Atsuta Horaiken Main Shop, image via Nagoya Info

Another famous Hitsumabushi restaurant in Nagoya is Atsuta Horaiken, which had its beginnings in a shop just south of Atsuta Jingu Shrine. This restaurant is extremely popular and commands long lines around lunch and dinner time.

This shop was established over 140 years ago, in 1873 to be precise! Some say that this ship invented (or at least popularized) Nagoya-style Hitsumabushi.

Atsuta Horaiken has a second shop even closer to Atsuta Jingu, as well as a third location in the Matsuzakaya Department Store in Sakae.

Atsuta Horaiken Main Restaurant (あつた蓬莱軒)
Opening Hours:
11:30 – 14:00 and 16:30 – 20:30
Address:
503 Godocho, Atsuta Ward, Nagoya, Aichi 456-0043
Website
| Google Maps

4. Koraku

Koraku
Hitsumabushi shop Koraku

Koraku is another Hitsumabushi restaurant you can find in Nagoya Station. You can find Koraku on a little food street called Umaimon Dori, which translates to something like “tasty road.”

Koraku is very convenietly located, and the fast service means you won’t have to wait too long.

Koraku (香楽)
Opening Hours:
10:00 – 22:00
Address:
1-1-4 Meieki, Nakamura Ward, Nagoya, Aichi 450-0002
Google Maps

5. Munagi

Sumiyaki Hitsumabushi Unagi Munagi

Hitsumabushi Unagi Munagi is another great place to try Nagoya’s signature eel dish. Located in downtown Sakae, this shop is one of our favorites. In fact, this shop is one we might guide you to during our Specialties of Nagoya Food Tour!

The amazing feature at this restaurant is the fresh Wasabi you can grate yourself. A fun experience if you have ever wondered where the spicy paste comes from.

Sumiyaki Hitsumabushi Unagi Munagi (炭焼ひつまぶし鰻 むなぎ)
Opening Hours:
11:00 – 22:30
Address:
Sakae D-1 Building 4-17-21 Sakae, Naka Ward, Nagoya, Aichi 460-0008
Google Maps

Hungry for more? Click the banner below to book our Specialties of Nagoya Food Tour to try Nagoya-style eel bowls, chicken wings, noodles, and more!

Specialties of Nagoya food tour banner

6. Unafuji Shirakabe Bettei

Unafuji Shirakabe Bettei

Looking for somewhere a little fancier? Though it has only been around since 1995, Unafuji Shirakabe Bettei has been listed in the Michelin Guide after doing business for only a short time. It is also consistently rated as one of the top eel restaurants on Tabelog, Japan’s most popular site for restaurant reviews.

Though the prices at Unafuji are on the expensive side, we assure you – it’s worth it.

There are several locations throughout Nagoya (and all over Japan) but this one is located near Nagoya Castle. It might be a great place to stop for dinner after spending the afternoon exploring Samurai City.

Unafuji Shirakabe Bettei (炭焼うな富士 白壁別邸)
Opening Hours:
Lunch 10:45 – 14:00 and Dinner 17:00 – 21:00
Address:
1-10-21 Yoshino, Higashi Ward, Nagoya, Aichi 461-0027
Google Maps

7. Hitsumabushi Shirakawa (Sakae Gas Building Location)

Hitsumabushi Shirakawa Sakae

This restaurant is another good place to go if you are looking for someplace affordable to try eel for the first time. They have a variety of different sizes and options, including a mini size for only 2,160 yen!

We also use this place during our food tours, and it is actually quite popular especially during dinner and on weekends, so if you are planning on stopping by it is better to avoid the noon and dinner rush.

Hitsumabushi Shirakawa Sakae Gas Building Location (しら河 栄ガスビル店)
Opening Hours:
Lunch 11:00 – 15:00 and Dinner 17:00 – 21:00 (Closed on Thursdays)
Address:
Sakae Gas Building 1F, 3-15-33, Sakae, Naka Ward, Nagoya, Aichi 460-0008
Google Maps


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About the author

In love with Japan and its amazing food, Lena wants to share her passion with the world. Her goal is to make everyone interested in Nagoya, her adoptive home, online through her writing and offline through unique food tours.

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